Termite Control Overview
Dampwood Termites
Dampwood termites are typically the easiest to control. Since they prefer moister conditions, correcting the source of the moisture can usually eliminate them. Fixing leaky plumbing, adding ventilation, fixing earth to wood contacts, faulty grades, or repairing roofs are some of the items that may need to be addressed with dampwood termites. Often times they are associated with rotten or damaged wood, in which case the wood should be repaired. This will remove the majority of the termites right along with the damaged wood. If the dampness and infestation don’t cause significant structural damage, repairs may not be necessary. In this case, a termiticide can be applied and/or injected for extra protection. Fumigation will also work for dampwood termites, but is probably overkill and not cost-effective unless the infestation is massive.
Things you can do to help:
The main way to prevent dampwood termites is to find moisture problems and correct them, before dampwoods find their way in. Cracked tiles, damaged caulking, leaky plumbing or floors, and poor ventilation are some things to look for. Many times moisture conditions can be hidden until they get out of hand. This is where careful inspection is required. You can do some inspecting yourself, with a flashlight and something sharp to probe wood members with. However, professional periodic inspections are still a good idea.
Drywood Termites
Drywood termites can be difficult to control. A good inspection to determine the size and location of the infestation is important. This will help to decide which method of control is most appropriate. Looking for signs of infestation, probing, and sounding wood members are common ways to find the infestation. Infested areas can be underneath the house or in the attic, as well as the interior and exterior of the house. After the areas that need treatment are found, several options are available. Fumigation is the most sure way to rid your house of drywood termites. To seal in the gas from a fumigation, the whole house must be enclosed in tarps – even for a small to medium sized infestation. Another option for smaller infestations is a localized treatment of the infested areas. Termiticide can be surface sprayed and/or injected into the wood members. Injecting into existing termite holes, and drilling holes nearby will fill the hollow galleries and provide rapid control. Things you can do to help:
Keeping your home well sealed, and painted is good prevention against drywood termites. This will make it harder for swarmers to get started eating your house. Also, make sure vents for the attic and subarea are intact. Attics and subareas contain lots of unpainted wood members, which are great food for termites. Termites can be in firewood, so keeping it separated from your house as much as possible is a good practice. Keep an eye out for swarmers or wings around windows, and piles of pellets. These are usually your first clues as to an infestation.
Subterranean Termites
Subterranean termites are usually easier than drywood termites to manage. The fact they need the moisture of their underground colony to survive is helpful in their control. Two different main approaches are available; chemical soil treatment or baiting. The basic idea with soil treatments is to create a continuous barrier around and underneath the house. Termites have to crawl through the treated soil to get to get to food or their colony. To get a continuous barrier around the home, digging trenches, drilling holes through concrete slabs, or injecting with a rod into the soil is necessary. Trenches will be backfilled, and holes in concrete slabs get plugged and patched for minimal aesthetic disturbance. Underneath the house, any visible termite tubes will be removed. Cellulose debris should also be removed to further discourage feeding. The termiticide we use is Termidor. We believe this to be the most effective subterranean termiticide available, with the lowest incidence of re-treatment. The other option is a termite baiting program. We use the Hex Pro Colony Elimination System. See our Hex Pro page for more information and links regarding this method. These two methods will take care of almost every subterranean termite problem. In some rare cases localized treatments of aboveground wood members may be prudent. Such situations might be where the soil is difficult to treat, or a secondary colony is suspected.
Things you can do to help:
Dead trees and stumps are the most common place to find subterranean termites. Removing dead trees or stumps around your property is a lot of work, but will be a big help in controlling termites. You may even remove part of the colony if you dig them up. Wooden items that can’t be removed (firewood, animal houses, etc) should be moved up off the ground and placed onto some kind of non-wood blocks. Paver bricks, or cinder blocks work well. Always choose termite-resistant wood when building things like fences, retaining walls, or planter boxes. Older fences can be retrofitted with concrete and metal post mounts if they are being attacked. Borate rods should be used on in-ground wood, if retrofitting isn’t yet needed or isn’t feasible. Siding and trim that extends down to the soil can contribute to termite damage and rot. If the wood isn’t yet damaged in any way, pulling the dirt away may be enough to solve the condition. Otherwise the wood may need to be trimmed or replaced.